Just like Gyeongnidan-gil Street in Itaewon or Sangsu-dong Café Street near Hongdae, Suwon has its own trendy little alley inside the fortress called Haengridan-gil (also known as Haenggung Village Road). A short walk from Hwaseong Haenggung Palace, you’ll find this cozy neighborhood. Under the tiled roofs of traditional hanok houses are clusters of cafés and restaurants that could easily belong in Seoul’s hippest districts.

Even though it’s located within a UNESCO World Heritage site, this isn’t a quiet place where you carefully walk around historical ruins. Instead, Hwaseong is full of life and Haengnidan-gil is a cultural street with youthful energy for friends meeting for lunch or café-hopping couples. Check out three of the most beloved cafés I visited in Haengnidan-gil.

- Chur-Plus (츄플러스)

This is one of the most popular cafés, known for its freshly fried, crispy churros. After having fried chicken for lunch, I stopped here for something sweet and ordered the churros and ice cream set in original and strawberry flavors. The churros come in six varieties: original, chocolate, strawberry, earl grey, injeolmi (Korean rice powder) and corn. A single churro is 3,500 won or in an ice cream set for 5,500 won. The churros were thick and crispy on the outside, soft and warm inside. Although I’m not usually a big churro fan, it was surprisingly satisfying. The sweetness of the ice cream balanced the flavor perfectly. It’s a great spot for a light dessert before heading to the next stop.

• Location: 26 Hwaseomun-ro 45beon-gil, Paldal-gu, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi-do, Naver Map

• Hours: 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. (Mon.–Fri.) / 10 a.m.–9 p.m. (Sat.–Sun.)

- Onu Yeowol (온유여월)

This café housed in two-story traditional hanok house is a favorite among visitors to the area. The beautiful wooden interior blends traditional beauty and contemporary style. There’s an outdoor seating area surrounded by bamboo where you can sit on the maru (wooden porch) with a cushion and enjoy your beverage on a small soban (Korean tea table). It captures the calm atmosphere of a traditional courtyard, perfect for taking photos or simply relaxing. On the second floor, wide traditional windows let in soft sunlight and offer a view of the bamboo trees and tiled roofs outside.

Their signature menu includes bokbunja (black raspberry) ade, walnut cream cheese dried persimmon rolls and the adorable bunny brownie ice cream. The café combines traditional Korean ingredients with modern dessert aesthetics, making it a must-visit for anyone who wants to experience the beauty of Korean tea culture in a modern way.

• Location: 65 Sinpung-ro, Paldal-gu, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi-do, Naver Map

• Hours: 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. (Closed on Tuesdays)

- HEOL (헤올)

HEOL is famous for having the best view of Janganmun Gate. Plan your visit around sunset and head to HEOL’s rooftop to watch the sky turn gold behind the majestic gate.

Besides the view, the café is known for its beautifully made desserts such as croffles (waffle style croissants), Basque cheesecake and rich chocolate ganache cake. HEOL brings great coffee, sweet desserts and a breathtaking view of the fortress all together— a truly perfect way to end the day in Hwaesong Fortress.

• Location: 902 Jeongjo-ro, Paldal-gu, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi-do, Naver Map

• Hours: 12 p.m.–10 p.m. (Sun.–Thu.) / 12 p.m.–11 p.m. (Fri.–Sat.)

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