Sing a song of Seongbuk-dong: Nogari Super

by Jordan Redmond
Groove Korea

Nogari Super is a simulacrum of an anju-jip or drinking house but don’t let that stop you from going. Even though the scribbling on the walls is just a little too good and the feeling is one of purposely-stoked nostalgia, the same serious boozing goes on in here just as it does in any other original edition of an anju-jip. This one just so happens to be a small franchise that sits in a typically warren-like hanok.

The real attraction here is the Jeonju-style hwangtae or dried pollack. After being hung and dried in the cold winter air, the hwangtae is split horizontally from head-to-tail and opened up, resembling an oblong book. At Nogari Super, they take a meat tenderizer to the dried fish, thwacking it until the meat has achieved a feathery quality. It’s then quickly toasted so that the fish picks up just a little char. Lastly, the lovingly tortured hwangtae ends up at your table with an addictive sauce made of soy sauce, mayonnaise, and hot green chilis through which you should drag the fish. The result is one of the best drinking dishes in the Korean food cannon.

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