Hongdae is one of the most popular neighborhoods in Seoul. Around Hongik University Station, shopping streets, buskers and nightlife keep the area busy past midnight. 

But if you head toward Yeonnam from Exit 3, the atmosphere changes within a few blocks. The streets are filled with stylish cafés, restaurants, small bars and guesthouses. Many couples and groups of friends come here for a slower afternoon or evening that’s still trendy and fun, but less crowds and nightlife than Hongdae.

The difference also makes Yeonnam a convenient place to stay if you plan to spend your nights in Hongdae. Guesthouses and Airbnb rentals are easy to find around the neighborhood and Hongik University Station connects directly to Incheon International Airport by the AREX line. I’ve stayed around Yeonnam several times when I hung out late in Hongdae. It’s close enough to walk back but far enough from the noise. 

During the day, the neighborhood gives you plenty to do. Gyeongui Line Forest Park, a long green path filled with grass and trees, stretches through the neighborhood. You can follow the park path to explore the area, grab a snack that catches your eye, then turn into the side streets when something looks interesting.

How to get there:

Yeonnam spreads north of Hongik University Station Exits 1–3. Start just outside Exit 3, then follow Gyeongui Line Forest Park to the cafés, restaurants and side streets around the neighborhood.

1. Enjoy Italian dishes at Take a Table

Take a Table is a small Italian restaurant with a cozy vintage interior that feels like stepping into an old European restaurant. The menu includes pasta, gnocchi, lasagna, steak and salads. I ordered the braised pork lasagna and steak cream gnocchi, and both were good enough that I wanted to write more about the restaurant. It’s also a nice choice for a date or a meal with friends when you want somewhere more special without going too formal. The dining room isn’t very large, so booking ahead through Naver or CatchTable is a good idea, especially on weekends or at dinner. For a closer look at what I ordered, see the sidebar.

Things to know

• Location: 6 Donggyo-ro 30-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul, Naver Map

• Hours: Open 11:30 a.m. to 9:45 p.m. daily / Break 3–5 p.m.

• Prices: Pasta, lasagna and gnocchi 16,000–22,000 won / Steaks 29,000–36,000 won / Drinks about 3,000–8,000 won

Read more about Take a Table.

2. Dessert at Antique Coffee

Antique Coffee is hard to pass up if you love cakes and tarts. A long dessert table stands in the middle of the café covered with cakes, tarts and pastries and surrounded by large flower decorations and brass candleholders. Most people stop here first to take photos before deciding what to order.

The selection includes cheesecakes, chiffon cakes, tarts piled with seasonal fruits, cherry chocolate cake and the café’s signature Dirty & Cream Croissant. Coffee, lattes, teas and Ades are also available to go with them. The café is spacious with plenty of seating for large groups. 

I went with a large slice of the blueberry Basque cheesecake with a dense, rich cheese layer and a firm pastry base. I’m not the biggest fan of cheesecake, but I really liked this one. It tasted almost like eating a cheesecake and tart at the same time. The desserts are also available for takeout. 

Things to know

• Location: 25-1 Yeonhui-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul, Naver Map

• Hours: Open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily

• Prices: Desserts about 6,300 –9,400 won / Drinks about 5,500–7,500 won

3. Grill your bread at Moment Coffee

Moment Coffee is small and homey with dark wood and warm yellow walls. It feels like a cozy old Japanese home, which makes the place even more special. People usually come here to enjoy the yaki pan set that lets you grill your own bread. A small gas burner and grill come with thick slices of bread and toppings, including butter, jam, whipped cream, red bean paste and a soft boiled egg. An illustrated card also shows how to put everything together. The bread cooks surprisingly fast, so keep an eye on it and turn it before it burns. 

I piled whipped cream and jam onto a piece of freshly grilled bread. The toppings went well with it and the bread was crisp on the outside while the middle stayed soft. The variety of toppings also made it fun to choose what to add next. The portions were generous, but if you want more, you can order extra for a small additional charge. 

This is especially fun with friends. Grilling bread gives everyone something to do while chatting and the whole setup looks very cute in photos. The café also serves cakes and other desserts along with coffee, lattes, tea and colorful drinks like melon soda.

Things to know

• Location: 29 World Cup buk-ro 4-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul, Naver Map

• Hours: Open 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily

• Prices: Yaki-pan and mushi-pan set 14,000 won / Cakes about 7,000 won–9,500 won / Drinks about 5,000–7,000 won

4. Breakfast at Travel Maker

Travel Maker opens at 8 a.m., earlier than many other brunch spots nearby and serves American diner breakfast all day. I came here with American friends in the morning after a night out in Hongdae. We ordered the pancake combo and the waffle combo served with scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage and hash browns. The portions were so large and the crispy hash browns were my favorite. When I visited, most customers were Westerners.

Yeonnam has plenty of stylish brunch restaurants, but Travel Maker is more like a casual American diner and that’s also part of the appeal. Other options include a breakfast burrito, blueberry pancakes, waffles, grilled cheese with tomato soup and a low carb breakfast plate. Brewed coffee and unsweetened iced tea are 5,000 won with free refills. Juice, sodas, lemonade, teas and milkshakes are also available. The menu has English descriptions and photos. 

If you stay out late in Hongdae and wake up wanting something familiar, this is a great spot to start the day. But if you would rather try one of Yeonnam’s trendy brunch spots, simply search brunch or 브런치 on Naver Map and you’ll find plenty nearby.

Things to know

• Location: 43 Yanghwa-ro 21-gil, Mapo-gu, Seoul, Naver Map

• Hours: Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily

• Prices: Breakfast combos 14,500–18,000 won / Other meals about 6,000–16,000 won / Drinks about 3,000–8,500 won

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Italian

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related stories

• Italian comfort food at Take a Table in Yeonnam, Seoul
• Exploring Korea: A trendy hanok neighborhood Ikseon-dong in Seoul
• Exploring Korea: Hongdae a happening spot!