Have you ever wondered why Korea no longer has a royal family? In Asia, many countries including Japan, Thailand, Cambodia and Bhutan still have monarchies while Korea does not.

For nearly 2,000 years, Korea was ruled by royal dynasties, the last of them being the Joseon Dynasty, which lasted for over 500 years. That reign ended just over a century ago, not gradually, not by revolution but by force.

The place where it ended still stands right next to Seoul City Hall surrounded by high-rise office towers and traffic. That place is Deoksugung Palace, preserving the final years of Korea’s monarchy.

Deoksugung is one of the five royal palaces of the Joseon Dynasty, but it is smaller than Gyeongbokgung and less imposing at first glance. What makes it unique is that two architectural worlds exist within the same palace: Traditional wooden halls stand beside Western-style buildings. The reason behind that contrast is the story of Deoksugung.

Deoksugung was not originally built as a main royal palace. After the Imjin War (Japanese invasions of 1592–1598), many of Seoul’s palaces were destroyed, and this site was used as a temporary royal residence.

In the late 19th century, the Korean Peninsula became a point of competition between regional powers. Qing China had long maintained influence over Korea, but that balance shifted after Japan’s victory in the First Sino-Japanese War (1894–1895).

The situation became more threatening in 1895, when Empress Myeongseong was murdered inside Gyeongbokgung Palace by Japanese armed men. The event, known as the Eulmi Incident, exposed how vulnerable the royal court had become.

In 1896, King Gojong fled to the Russian legation in Seoul for protection. When he returned the next year, he did not go back to Gyeongbokgung. Instead, Gojong chose Deoksugung, where he made his last attempt to preserve Korea’s independence.

In 1897, from Deoksugung, King Gojong proclaimed the Korean Empire and declared himself emperor. It was the final stage of a dynasty that had ruled Korea for over 500 years.

As Korea did not have enough military strength to resist outside pressure, Gojong pursued diplomacy. Western-style buildings were constructed within Deoksugung to signal that Korea was a modern, sovereign state that deserved to be treated equally among world powers.

However, Japan had already defeated China in 1895, and in 1905 it defeated Russia, rapidly establishing its dominant power in East Asia. Japan’s control over the Korean Peninsula was increasingly accepted by other international powers. Soon, the Korean Empire lost its diplomatic sovereignty, and in 1910, was formally annexed by Japan. It was not just the end of the empire. It was the beginning of 35 years of Japanese occupation.

In 1919, Emperor Gojong died at Deoksugung Palace. The buildings he left behind are still standing.

Walking through Deoksugung recently, I kept feeling that the palace carried more tension than beauty. Other royal palaces in Seoul, especially Gyeongbokgung, tend to impress visitors with scale, symmetry and dynastic grandeur. Deoksugung felt smaller, modest and somehow heavier.

Junghwajeon Hall is the palace’s main throne hall where the emperor held official ceremonies and state events. It represents the traditional order of the Korean monarchy. But just a short walk away, the scene shifts completely.

Inside Hamnyeongjeon Hall, where Emperor Gojong lived, a Western-style chandelier hangs from the wooden ceiling. Seeing a European fixture inside a traditional Korean palace room stopped me in my tracks. As a Korean visitor, that kind of contrast does not seem elegant at first. It feels startling, almost awkward. But the longer I looked at it, the more it seemed to reveal the emperor’s reality. This was a ruler trying not to let his country fall behind, even as the world around him was closing in.

Behind Hamnyeongjeon is Jeonggwanheon Pavilion, one of the unusual structures in the palace. Unlike a traditional Korean pavilion, it has a Western-style veranda. It is said that Gojong drank coffee here while meeting foreign diplomats. He was still holding meetings, still pouring coffee, still believing it might matter.

The contrast becomes even clearer around Seokjojeon Hall. The Western-style building, garden and fountain show how the Korean Empire was trying to present a modern image.

Normally, harmony is what defines Korean architecture. In Deoksugung, what stands out is the absence of it. Western architects who designed the new buildings had limited understanding of Korean palace traditions, and the Korean court was absorbing unfamiliar ideas under enormous pressure. The result is a palace that feels visually unsettled. To me, that unsettled feeling is not a flaw. It is one of the clearest physical traces of the Korean Empire’s final struggle to survive.

1. Changing of the Royal Guard Ceremony

At Daehanmun Gate, the Changing of the Royal Guard Ceremony takes place twice daily. As the ceremony begins, drums echo across the gate, followed by traditional instruments. Guards in colorful uniforms recreate the movements and protocols of the royal guards who once protected the palace. For visitors, this is one of the most interesting ways to experience the atmosphere of the Joseon Dynasty. Note: The ceremony can be canceled due to weather or other circumstances.

• Location: Daehanmun Gate (the main entrance of Deoksugung)

• Hours: 11 a.m., 2 p.m. (Tue.–Sun.)

2. Korean Empire History Tour at Seokjojeon

Seokjojeon Hall is the most distinctive building in Deoksugung, featuring the European-style stone facade. During the Korean Empire period, it was built to receive foreign diplomats and host official events. Today, it operates as the Korean Empire History Hall.

Visitors can explore the building only through a guided tour that explains the life of Emperor Gojong and the final years of the Korean Empire. Korean-language tours require advance online reservation while foreign visitors can register on-site. English tours are held twice daily, and each session is limited to 20 participants. Foreign visitors must register their name at the Seokjojeon Hall entrance to secure a spot and should bring ID such as a passport to verify that they are not Korean. It is one of the best experiences within Deoksugung and is strongly recommended.

• English tour: 11:50 a.m., 2:50 p.m. (Tue.–Sun.)

• Duration: About 40-45 minutes

• Fee: Free

3. National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art

Next to Seokjojeon, the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Deoksugung Branch, offers exhibitions of contemporary art. The museum is located in a historic building from the Japanese occupation era. While exploring the palace, visitors can also enjoy contemporary art.

• Hours: 10 a.m.–6 p.m. (Tue., Thu., Fri., Sun.) / 10 a.m.–9 p.m. (Wed., Sat.) / Closed on Mondays (*The museum is temporarily closed until Aug. 5, 2026.)

• Ticket: Admission varies by exhibition (usually around 2,000 won)

4. Deoksugung Stone Wall Road

Outside the palace, the Deoksugung Stone Wall Road is one of Seoul’s most beloved walking paths. Many visitors choose to walk the road after exploring the palace as the path is beautifully lined with trees and traditional stone walls.

Today, Deoksugung offers more than a palace visit. It preserves the tension between tradition and modernization. But also, Seokjojeon helps visitors understand the history of the Korean Empire and the museum next door offers a chance to enjoy art and culture.

Deoksugung is a place where visitors can experience history, architecture and the arts at once while enjoying both indoor and outdoor spaces. It is not the grandest palace in Korea, but it is one of the clearest places to see how a monarchy ended and how a country endured.

• Location: 99 Sejong-daero, Jung-gu, Seoul or near Exit 1 of City Hall Station

• Hours: 9 a.m.–9 p.m. (Closed on Mondays)

• Tickets: 1,000 won / Free for visitors wearing hanbok or those under 24 years old or 65 years old and older

• Website

USAG Yongsan

Camp Casey

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