Just about 40 minutes from U.S. bases in Pyeongtaek, Suwon Hwaseong Fortress stands as one of Korea’s most historical and family-friendly destinations. There’s no entrance fee, and the fortress is open 24 hours a day.

Built in the late 18th century under King Jeongjo’s vision, Hwaseong once brought prosperity and innovation to everyday lives of Joseon people as the most advanced fortress city of the time. More than 200 years later, life within these walls still thrives. Today, this peaceful fortress, now surrounded by high-rise buildings, welcomes locals and travelers.

You don’t really need a plan before coming here. Every attraction is within a 20-minute walk, and there’s something to enjoy around every corner. Some people come just to catch the sunset from the top of the fortress, while others ride the hot-air balloon or try traditional Korean archery. For me, Hwaseong always feels new no matter how many times I visit. It’s a place where you can wander freely and experience both history and everyday joy in the same moment.

Things to know

• Location: Near Line 1. Suwon Station or Hwaseo Station (Take Metro Line 1 or a Mugunghwa train to Suwon)

• Hours: Open 24 hours

• Admission: Free (Separate tickets required for some attractions)

• Parking: There are several parking lots around the fortress, so choose one that best fits your route. Recommended parking areas with reasonable rates (Free for the first hour / 300 won every 10 minutes after / maximum 7,000 won per day)

• Website

• Hwahongmun Gate Parking Lot Naver Map

• Yongyeon Pond Parking Lot Naver Map

I began my recent visit to Hwaseong at Changnyongmun Gate on the eastern side of the fortress. Hwaseong is vast and full of surprisesso I stopped by the Information Center first. The staff kindly handed me a map and a small stamp book, explaining that if I collect 7-9 stamps, I could receive a souvenir like a Suwon mascot frog badge.

The stamp book guides visitors to all the major historical landmarks within the fortress, but I also added my personal must-sees like the chicken alley and café street.

Though Hwaseong Fortress is large, it never feels overwhelming. The walking paths are smooth and easy, so you can take a peaceful stroll, enjoy the views and stop for food or coffee whenever you wish. Below are my favorite spots that I highly recommend not missing when visiting the fortress.

The two grand gates

Hwaseong Fortress is protected by four gates, but two are especially known for their grandeur: Janganmun Gate in the north and Paldalmun Gate in the south.

Janganmun, destroyed during the Korean War, was rebuilt in 1975. If you look closely, you can still find bullet marks on its stone walls. Paldalmun, on the other hand, has preserved its original structure and is designated as a National Treasure for its historical and artistic value.

Whichever gate you visit, pause for a moment to look up. The massive structure and layered eaves look so powerful, yet graceful.

• Janganmun Gate Naver Map

• Paldalmun Gate Naver Map

The most photogenic spots

Hwahongmun Gate, also known as the Water Gate, sits above the Suwoncheon stream. Locals often call it “the most beautiful spot in Hwaseong,” and I can see why. Visitors can sit and rest inside the gate, so I took a peaceful moment watching the water flow gently under the stone bridge.

Just beside it stands Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion, overlooking the Yongyeon Pond. It was once King Jeongjo’s favorite resting place. He would watch the reflection of the sky over the water, and write poems inspired by the beauty of the surrounding scenery.

The pavilion used to be my favorite spot to enjoy snacks whenever I visited Hwaseong, but this time, it was closed for restoration (scheduled to finish in 2027). Yet the pond area surrounded by green lawns remains one of the most peaceful picnic spots in the fortress, so make sure to stop by Hwahongmun Gate and Yongyeon Pond during your visit.

• Hwahongmun Gate Naver Map

• Yongyeon Pond Naver Map

The highest point

There is a small mountain called Paldalsan inside the fortress, and on the top you’ll find Seojangdae, the old command post that once served as a military observation tower. It’s the highest point in Hwaseong, offering a panoramic view of the fortress, the Haenggung Palace and the city. The climb from the base is gentle and easy, taking only about 15 minutes. Many visitors come here to watch the sunset or night view.

• Seojangdae Command Post Naver Map

If you want to have a deeper understanding of Suwon Hwaseong, stop by Hwaseong Museum and Haenggung Palace.

Suwon Hwaseong Museum

The museum isn’t big, but full of stories about how the fortress was built and why it came to exist. It tells the story of King Jeongjo, one of Korea’s most beloved rulers, remembered as a dreamer and a devoted son. His father, Prince Sado, was tragically executed by his own father, King Yeongjo. He was locked inside a rice chest and left to die. Prince Sado was buried in a modest grave on the outskirts of Seoul, but Jeongjo later relocated it to Suwon’s most auspicious site and raised it to the status of a royal tomb.

Hwaseong was also built for defense and designed for people to live and trade. Roads, waterways, markets and even a royal residence were all part of Jeongjo’s plan. He personally oversaw the construction and used advanced tools and engineering methods from China and the West, which were remarkably modern for the 18th century. Because of this harmony between practicality, beauty and innovation, UNESCO designated Hwaseong Fortress a World Cultural Heritage Site in 1997.

The museum offers English brochures and explanations for many exhibits, but keep in mind that not all displays include English descriptions.

• Location: 21 Changnyong-daero, Paldal-gu, Suwon, Gyeonggi-do

• Hours: 9 a.m.–6 p.m. (Closed on Mondays)

• Tickets: 2,000 won for adults / 1,000 won for teens / Free for those under 12 and over 65

• Naver Map

Haenggung Palace

Haenggung Palace stands at the heart of the fortress and is known as the largest temporary royal palace in Korea. It served as King Jeongjo’s residence whenever he visited Suwon to pay respect to his father’s tomb. It’s smaller and simpler than the grand palaces in Seoul but warmer as it was a place of rest.

I didn’t go inside this time as I wanted to spend my day wandering around the fortress walls, but if you’ve never visited a royal palace before, Haenggung is a beautiful one to start with. It’s also a great place to learn about King Jeong’s life, his devotion to his father and his achievements. Many cultural and historical events are held here, and English guided tours are available.

• Location: 825 Jeongjo-ro, Paldal-gu, Suwon, Gyeonggi-do

• Hours: 9 a.m.–6 p.m. daily

• Tickets: 2,000 won for adults / 1,500 won for teens / 1,000 won for children (7 to 12)

• Naver Map

What I love most about Hwaseong is how naturally the past and present blend together. Walking along the stone walls almost feels like you’ve stepped into the 18th century. But then, just beyond the fortress, tall buildings rise against the blue sky, and here and there you’ll find hidden little gems like cozy cafés, art shops and even a mural village. Right outside Paldalmun Gate, Suwon’s famous Nammun Market area, where nine traditional markets are gathered, is a perfect place to enjoy local food and experience everyday Korean culture. The harmony between history and modern life, and between nature and culture, is what makes Hwaseong so special.

Suwon Chicken Street

At the information center, the staff told me that Suwon has three famous dishes: galbi, fried chicken and sundae (Korean blood sausage). So, for lunch, I chose fried chicken, especially since there’s an entire alley inside the fortress dedicated to it. Luckily, I got a seat at Jinmi Chicken, the most popular restaurant in the alley, without waiting. The menu was simple, just classic crispy and sweet-spicy chicken, but it didn’t need anything more. The meat was juicy, the batter light and crunchy.

Jinmi Chicken

• Location: 21 Jeongjo-ro 800beon-gil, Paldal-gu, Suwon, Gyeonggi-do

• Hours: 11 a.m.–11 p.m. (Closed on Mondays)

• Prices: 20,000 won–21,000 won per whole chicken

• Naver Map

Haengridan-gil Street

After the meal, I walked just 5 minutes across the street to Haengnidan-gil, a trendy street filled with cafés and restaurants. I spent the afternoon café-hopping, sampling desserts and exploring beautiful hanok-style and rooftop cafés.

• Naver Map

I spent the whole day walking through the fortress, yet I couldn’t fill my stamp book completely. I got only 5 stamps, so I couldn’t get the frog. But maybe that’s the beauty of Suwon Hwaseong. You can’t finish all in one visit, so you must come back.

Before heading back home, I sat at a rooftop café watching the sunset, and something unexpected appeared—a large helium balloon, Flying Suwon, rising into the golden sky. I had always promised myself to try it whenever I came back to Suwon, but I always forgot, getting lost in all the things to see and do inside the fortress. Maybe next time, I thought.

It’s strange and beautiful at the same time. You see a hot-air balloon floating over the magnificent historical gate while sipping tea at a modern café. The past and present get along so well in this place.

Hwaseong is truly filled with small adventures like archery fields, museums and cafés. If you’re visiting with friends or family, check out the Kids’ Corner story on the next page for fun things to do in Hwaseong Fortress.

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