When I become a close friend with someone in the U.S. military, saying goodbye often comes too soon, which was the case when my dear friend Amanda, aka DJ Die Hard, recently left Korea.

Amanda, who I first met at AFN during a radio show to promote Stars and Stripes, is an exceptional on-air talent who entertained and inspired many in the military community, earning her the title of Best AFN Radio Personality twice in Stars and Stripes annual Best of the Pacific magazine. But she’s even a better person outside the studio.

To beautifully conclude Amanda’s special journey in Korea, my good friend Seohyeon from Stripes and I decided to throw a farewell party for her in Busan, a city she always wanted to visit. We spent an activity-packed, one-night-two-day trip to make sure Amanda got to enjoy as much of Busan as possible.

Check out all the tips and start making your own itinerary!

How to get to Busan from Camp Humphreys

• By train:

1. Take SRT from Pyeongtaek Jije Station (about 2 hours and 12 minutes travel time, ticket price: about 45,000 won per person).

2. Take ITX from Pyeongtaek Station (about 4 hours, ticket price: about 35,000 won per person).

3. Take Mugunghwa from Pyeongtaek Station (about 4 hours 26 minutes, ticket price: about 23,800 won)

• By car: 3.5-4 hours (about 350 km /217 miles).

1ST STOP

HAEDONG YONGGUNGSA TEMPLE

My friends and I chose Haedong Yonggungsa Temple as our first stop in Busan as it marked the easternmost point on our itinerary. It’s a must-visit for anyone exploring Busan, promising a unique cultural experience. Unlike most Korean temples in mountains, this one sits overlooking the southeastern coast, offering a mesmerizing view against the backdrop of the South Sea’s clear blue waters.

• Address: 416-3 Sirang-ri Gijang-eup Busan (Haedong Yonggungsa Temple), Naver Map

• Hours: 4:30 a.m. - 7:20 p.m. (Every day)

• Admission: Free

• Parking: 2,000 won for 30 minutes / 500 won added for every additional 10 minutes / 20,000 won for 24 hours - only card payments accepted.

Modern coastal temple

Established in the 1970s, this relatively new temple blends unique decorations harmoniously with the seascape to create a picturesque view. It features many large Buddha statues and photo spots that capture visitors’ attention. Each area within the temple grounds offers different views of the sea and temple, so take your time to explore thoroughly and capture beautiful photos from every angle.

Shops at the entrance

It’s also fun to browse various shops lining the entrance to the temple. You can stop by to have a quick bite of local snacks, including spicy Busan fish cakes or a Dalgona sugar candy, and grab some Buddhist souvenirs.

Statues of 12 zodiac animals

At the temple’s entrance, there are 12 stone statues representing the 12 zodiac animals: rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, sheep, monkey, rooster, dog, and pig. It’s a famous spot for taking photos in front of the animal corresponding to your birth year.

Sunrise viewing spot

Since Haedong Yonggungsa is also facing the East Sea, it is known for its amazing sunrises. This spot is especially popular on New Year’s Day with people seeking to catch the year’s first sunrise.

Tourist destination temple

As a famous tourist attraction, there are many activities for visitors to enjoy and experience. One popular option is purchasing a golden leaf at the temple shop and writing your wish before hanging it in a designated place on the temple grounds. You can also purchase cute zodiac candles with your birth year animal, and they also make great souvenirs for friends and family if you know their birth years. At 3,000 to 5,000 won per activity or memento, they’re inexpensive ways to make fun memories with your friends. My friends and I each bought zodiac candles corresponding to our birth year for 3,000 won each.

Respect worshippers and other visitors

Though it’s popular among tourists, remember that this temple is a place of worship for Buddhists who come to pray and make wishes. Be mindful of those practicing their faith and refrain from taking photos inside worship rooms during your visit.

Enjoy the trail nearby

If the temple is too busy and you’re seeking a peaceful experience, take a walk towards the Osiria Beach Park Trail connected to one of the temple entrances. The trail boasts plenty of great spots - Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, Fisheries Science Museum, Dongam Village, Turtle Rock and more - to relax and appreciate the South Sea’s beauty. Stroll or take a seat and enjoy a moment to soak up the tranquil atmosphere.

2ND STOP

KOREA’S TRENDIEST BEACH, GWANGALLI

In the lively coastal city of Busan, two beloved beaches, Haeundae and Gwangalli, sit close to each other yet offer uniquely distinct atmospheres. For young adults, Gwangalli reigns supreme as the ultimate hotspot, with vibrant streets lined with trendy cafes, restaurants, bars, shops, and activities right by the picturesque beachfront.

During my journey to Busan, Gwangalli Beach stood out as the favored destination for everyone in our group. The beach’s dynamic energy and scenic views captivated us from the moment we arrived. Here are some top activities that promise to create unforgettable moments at Gwangalli Beach!

• By subway: Gwangan Station or Geumnyeonsan Station

• By car: There are many parking lots near Gwangalli, but it can be challenging to find parking during peak season or on weekends. If you can’t find a parking spot, inquire at the restaurant you plan to visit about available parking. Parking costs over 4,000 won per hour in this area, so leaving your car at your accommodation can also be a good option. To find nearby parking spots, search for “parking” on Google Maps. Naver Map shows more parking lots, but you should search using the Korean word “주차장,” or parking lot in Hangul.

Check out the story about Haeundae Beach vs. Gwangalli Beach

Picnic on the Beach

Once we arrived at the beach, we kicked off our time by grabbing a cocktail and settling into a random spot on the soft sand. There’s nothing quite like enjoying a picnic on the soft white sands of Gwangalli Beach, whether it’s during the day or at night. Sitting by the beautiful sea and gazing at Gwangan Bridge is a crucial Busan activity. Visitors can take away food from restaurants nearby or have it delivered to savor delicious meals right on the beach.

The night views, illuminated by the vibrant lights of Gwangan Bridge, are mesmerizing. Especially on Saturday nights, many flock to enjoy the spectacular drone light show.

In Cocktail on the Beach

The bar offers a taste of American cuisine and a variety of delightful cocktails. You can also take out drinks to enjoy them right by the beach.

• Address: 197-11 Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu, Busan, Naver Map

• Hours: 1 p.m. – 2 a.m. (Sun.-Thu.) / 1 p.m. – 4 a.m. (Fri.-Sat.)

Drone Light Show

The 10-minute drone show creates a festive atmosphere at the beach. Note that the show may be canceled in case of rain or special circumstances, so it’s recommended to check the schedule on the website.

• Time: Mar.-Sept.: 8 p.m. & 10 p.m. / Oct.-Feb.: 7 p.m. & 9 p.m. (Only Saturdays)

Exploring the trendy streets

What makes Gwangalli truly special is the hip commercial districts right by the beach. You’ll discover numerous trendy cafés, themed cafes like animal cafés or boardgame cafés, coin singing rooms, restaurants, bars and more, all offering breathtaking views of the shore. Below are some places I enjoyed with my friends. However, most places facing Gwangalli offer splendid ocean views, so feel free to explore wherever catches your eye.

Dongun - Gwangan Main Branch (돈군)

At this restaurant, you can savor delicious Korean BBQ while enjoying a stunning sea view right across the street from the beach. The meat quality is excellent, and the variety of side dishes is delightful. They serve various meats, including their signature dishes like Gold Axe Pork Belly, pork galbi and beef. My friends and I have tried them all, and the pork galbi was especially fantastic. When ordering pork menu items, the staff will grill them for you at your table.

• Address: Gwangan-dong 200-6, Suyeong-gu, Busan, Naver Map

• Hours: 11:30 a.m. – Midnight (Break: 3:30 p.m. – 5 p.m. , Mon.-Fri.)

• Parking: 1 hour free (4,200 won for an hour)

Ddubucks Gwangan (뚜벅스)

This café offers delicious desserts, coffees, and a variety of beverages with the backdrop of a splendid ocean view.

• Address: 7th floor, 239 Gwangan-haebyeon-ro, Suyeong-gu, Busan, Naver Map

• Hours: 10 a.m. – 10 p.m.

Yacht tour

A private yacht tour was the highlight of our trip, offering stunning panoramic views of Haeundae and Gwangalli beaches. To host a beautiful farewell party for Amanda, we booked a private evening tour through Lana Yacht. The professional staff ensured safety and a smooth sailing experience despite the windy weather. They also provided exceptional service by capturing memorable photos of everyone at great spots. Free snacks, juices, and water were available onboard. They even arranged fireworks while playing beautiful music when we surprised Amanda with the cake and gift during the party!

Lana Yacht

• Address: 8-21B, 23A, Suyeongman Yacht Stadium, 84 Haeundae Beach Road (Located between Haeundae and Gwangalli)

• Hours: 10 a.m. - Midnight

• Contact: 1800-6316  (010-8005-7613)

• Cost for group tours: 20,000 to 30,000 won per person.

• Cost for private tours: 149,000 to 199,000 won for two people, with an additional charge of 15,000 won per additional person.

• Naver Map/Booking: If you can’t book through Naver, inquire via text message. The staff will assist you with booking and the payment process.

The Bay 101 Yacht Club

Simple booking in English is available at Klook.

Things to know for yacht tour in Busan

• Course: Approximately 1-hour duration sailing through Haeundae Beach to Gwangalli Beach.

• Services included: Most yacht tour shops offer similar packages that include free water, beverages, snacks, blankets, photo shoots, and evening fireworks.

• Preparation: Arrive at the dock 10 minutes before departure. An I.D. card may be required.

• Schedule: Tours are available from 10 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Evening tours are recommended for enjoying the night views of the ocean.

• Caution: Many people accidentally drop their cell phones or valuables into the sea while taking pictures. Also, be mindful of hats, scarves, and other items that could be blown away by the wind.

Group tour vs. Private tour

• Group tour: You’ll share the yacht with other groups, but it won’t be crowded as medium-sized yachts usually accommodate 8-10 people. This is a cost-effective option when you’re with fewer than 5 people. The cost is usually between 20,000 to 30,000 won per person.

• Private tour: For groups larger than 5 people, renting a private yacht allows for exclusive time together at a slightly higher cost than group tours. Private yacht tours are perfect for celebrating special events like birthdays or proposals. You can request music playlists and bring simple party items onboard. Prices usually start from 200,000 won and vary based on the number of people, tour schedule, and yacht size.

Gwangalli Beach – the ultimate summer destination

Throughout the year, Gwangalli Beach buzzes with youthful energy, but summer is hands down the best season with numerous water activities available on the beach. Visitors can enjoy swimming, relaxing on the beach and water activities like surfing and banana boating. During the beach’s open season, convenient rental services for parasols, tubes, and shower rooms are available, and lifeguards are always on standby.

Feel free to bring your pets as this beach is pet-friendly. Many nearby restaurants and cafés also welcome dogs. Be cautious if you encounter jellyfish. Don’t touch them and promptly notify a safety guard to have them removed.

• Beach open season: July 1 to Aug. 31

• Fees for rental service:

・ Rental for a reed parasol, beach bed: 10,000 won

・Rental for a parasol, tube: 5,000 won

・Picnic mat, towel purchase: 3,000 won

・Shower, changing room usage: 2,000 won

Gwangalli Marine Leisure Center (광안리해양레포츠센터)

The shop offers a variety of exciting water sports such as paddle boarding, surfing, kayaking, motorboat, banana boat, jet skis, bubble parties, water playground and more. You can enjoy several activities together at cost-effective prices through package deals. For inquiries, you can contact them via call or chat on Naver.

• Address: 148-103 Namcheon-dong, Suyeong-gu, Busan, Naver Map

• Hours: 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.

• Phone: 010-2898-0027

• Parking: Free for one hour (limited spots available)

• Website: Korean only. Use Chrome for translation.

3RD STOP

EXPLORE BUSAN’S TOP TRADITIONAL MARKETS IN JUNG-GU AREA

During the Korean War, Seoul fell to the North Korean invasion within three days and the Korean government was temporarily relocated to Busan. Many markets were established in Jung-gu area as refugees fled to Busan began selling items to sustain their livelihoods.

These markets have since become iconic destinations in Busan, preserving Korea’s modern history while shaping its unique culture today. The markets listed below are all located close to each other within a 5-10 minute walk. They all offer a wide array of delicious local foods to sample.

This area is truly one of the best destinations you shouldn’t miss to experience the true colors of Busan. Check out these must visit traditional markets in Busan and don’t forget to bring cash!

• By subway: Get off at Jagalchi Station

• Parking Lot:

Bupeyong Public Parking Lot:

Located by Kkangtong Market, nabbing a spot can be difficult during peak hours.

• Address: 32 Junggu-ro 33 beon-gil, Jung-gu Busan, Naver Map

• Price: 3,000 won per hour

Yongdusan Public Parking Lot:

A good alternative that is about 10 minutes away on foot from the markets.

• Address: 120 Daecheong-ro Jung-gu Busan, Naver Map 

• Price: 3,000 won per hour

Gukje Market (International Market)

Similar to Namdaemun Market in Seoul, Gukje Market is renowned for a wide variety of specialized goods, including traditional Korean clothing (hanbok), glasses, handmade crafts, interior decorations, clothing, jewelry, bags, food, stationery and more. The market earned its name “International Market” as it was a place to trade goods left behind by the Japanese after the liberation in 1945, and even items from U.S. military bases during the Korean War. Note that Gukje Market is closed on Sundays.

• Address: Sinchang-dong 4(sa)-ga Jung-gu, Busan, Naver Map

• Hours: 9 a.m. - 8 p.m. (Closed on Sundays)

Movie Gukje Market (Ode to My Father)

Ranked as the fourth highest-grossing movie in Korean film history, this film portrays the life of refugees in Busan during and after the Korean War. It’s also often referred as “Korean Forrest Gump,” as the movie captures the country’s modern history while the main character struggled to survive from hardship. It’s a great movie for those interested in learning more about Korea’s modern history and is currently available with English subtitles on Netflix.

Bupyeong Kkangtong Market (Can Market)

Kkangtong Market is a night spot famous for the numerous eateries and street food offerings. Alongside diverse Korean cuisine, the market features various international foods from Turkey, Indonesia, Vietnam, Japan, and more. Some shops open in the morning on weekends, but visiting in the evening is still highly recommended to fully enjoy this unique night market. The name “Can Market” originated during the Korean War when refugees started selling canned goods from U.S. military bases.

• Address: 48 Bupyeong 1gil, Jung-gu Busan, Naver Map

• Hours: 7:30 p.m. - 11:30 p.m. (Open year-round, closed during the Lunar New Year season)

BIFF Street

BIFF (Busan International Film Festival) Street is a specialized area known for diverse street food and shopping. Visitors can enjoy countless delicious Korean street food day and night throughout the year. Since the liberation in 1945, this area has hosted numerous theaters and initially served as the spot for Busan International Film Festival. While major events of the film festival have moved to the Haeundae area, traces of the festival’s early days like handprints of movie stars remain here and it is still a hub of a variety of cultural experiences.

• Address: Jagalchi Station Exit 3,5,7, Naver Map

Jagalchi Market

At Jagalchi, one of the largest seafood markets in Korea, you can find a variety of sea creatures on sale, including rare items like whale meat and shark meat. The market consists of outdoor stalls and a modern seven-floor building, making it an ideal destination for seafood enthusiasts. On the first floor, you can purchase fresh seafood, while the second floor features restaurants where visitors can enjoy meals for an additional fee for cooking and serving. The rooftop observatory also offers a great view.

During the Korean War, refugee women gathered at Jagalchi Market to sell fish and marine products, earning them the nickname “Jagalchi ajumma.” As you explore this bustling market, you’ll hear vendors speaking in Busan dialect saying “Oh-iso, Bo-iso, Sa-iso,” which means “Come, look and buy.”

Jagalchi Market (building)

• Address: 52 Jagalchihaean-ro, Jung-gu, Busan, Naver Map

• Hours: 5 a.m. - 10 p.m. (Closed on the first and third Tuesdays of each month)

• Underground parking: 700 won every 10 minutes (2 hours free with purchase)

4TH STOP

FROM SHANTY TOWN TO FAIRY TALE VILLAGE GAMCHEON CULTURE VILLAGE

With just about an hour to spare before leaving Busan, we decided to end our Busan journey with a visit to Gamcheon Culture Village, near the traditional market areas. Soon everyone agreed it was a fantastic decision! Despite our limited time, we could explore most corners of the village because it’s small. The experience felt like stepping into a fairy tale - charming, mystical, and uniquely beautiful.

Gamcheon Culture Village is a group of colorful buildings and homes nestled along a hillside with a view of Songdo Bay. This village was constructed during the Korean War when refugees settled in Busan. With the influx of refugees, the village expanded up the uninhabited hillsides and formed a shanty town. Later, urban restoration projects, combined with cultural and artistic endeavors, have transformed the village into one of Busan’s top tourist attractions today. Featuring beautiful pastel-colored houses and winding alleyways with sweeping ocean views, the village is often called Korea’s Santorini.

Within the village, there are many small shops selling ice cream, coffee, delightful desserts and street food. Also, there are souvenir stores, craft workshops and guesthouses. Many artists have moved into the area, opening studios that offer various craft experiences and sell unique souvenirs. As it is a residential area, entering the village is restricted after 6 p.m.

The theme of “The Little Prince” by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, a beloved book in Korea, is featured throughout Gamcheon Culture Village, with the best photo spot being where the Little Prince sat with his friend the fox, as depicted in the book. If you visit on weekends, be prepared to line up and wait to take photos at this popular spot. Moreover, the village is filled with numerous beautiful and unique murals, making it a wonderful place to capture memorable photographs.

Things to know

If you bring a car, use the parking lot right across the entrance near the Gamcheon Culture Village Information Center. From other parking areas, you will have to walk over 10 minutes or take a bus. The parking fee costs 100 won for 10 minutes.

• Address: 203 Gamnae 2-ro, Saha-gu, Busan or 130 Okcheon-ro, Saha-gu, Busan (Busan Education History Center), Naver Map + Parking

• Hours: 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. (May-Oct.) / 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. (Nov.-Feb.)

• Admission: Free

Fleet Chinhae

USAG Daegu

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