Though the Demilitarized Zone dividing the Korean Peninsula in two is a physical border and a symbol of war, confrontation and national tragedy, as a sign of easing tensions in the region, South Korea has started to open up the area usually off-limits to civilians. Twice a year, the opportunity to pedal your way around Paju, a town north of Seoul, and enjoy the beautiful scenery that has remained untouched for decades, opens up.