In Seoul, timeless heritage and modern skyscrapers share the same skyline. It’s a city where history isn’t just remembered—you live and breathe with it. Turn a corner, and you might suddenly slip into a different century. If you’ve ever dreamed of time traveling, start your journey in Jongno, the royal heart of the capital.

As part of the ROK Cultural Immersion Program, U.S. service members explored Gyeongbokgung Palace, once home to the royal family. As a Seoul native, I’ve been to the palace many times. However, seeing it through the eyes of those visiting for the first time reminded me just how powerful and alive this place truly is. They walked through a moment in time, not just as visitors, but as time travelers dressed in hanbok, connecting with Korea’s past and royal culture.

Jongno: The royal heart of Seoul

Before stepping into Gyeongbokgung, it’s worth pausing to understand the neighborhood that surrounds it. Jongno used to be the area where kings reigned, and noble families lived for centuries. Even now, it preserves tangible pieces of the Joseon Dynasty: the Five Royal Palaces, Jongmyo Shrine and hanok villages like Bukchon and Seochon. It’s framed by historic gates like Sungnyemun (South Gate) and Heunginjimun (East Gate), surrounded by traditional markets. It’s the place where past and present breathe together.

GYEONGBOKGUNG PALACE

At the center of all it, Gyeongbokgung Palace stands as the largest, most symbolic of Korea’s palaces. Its name means “palace greatly blessed by heaven.” The complex, designed according to geomantic principles, sits on a site with Mt. Bugaksan as a backdrop and facing Cheonggyecheon Stream, is believed to bring blessings. Due to this belief, Cheongwadae, known as the Blue House and the residential building for the Korean president, was constructed nearby.

But behind its beauty lies history of pain. The palace was burned during the Japanese invasions of 1592 and left in ruins for over 270 years before King Gojong led the restoration. In 1895, Empress Myeongseong was murdered here by Japanese mercenaries, a tragedy remembered as the Eulmi Incident. Later, during the occupation, the Japanese built the massive Government-General Building directly in front of the palace, blocking its view and spirit. The palace was damaged again during the Korean War.

It wasn’t until the 1990s that full-scale restoration began. Today, though Korea no longer has a monarchy, Gyeongbokgung remains a profound symbol of national pride and a living monument to resilience.

• Location: Near Line 3, Gyeongbokgung Station Exit 5, Naver Map

• Hours: 9 a.m.–6 p.m. (Closed Tuesdays)

• Ticket: 3,000 won

• Free entry for: Visitors dressed in hanbok / Koreans under 24 or over 65 / Foreigners under 19 or over 65

GYEONGBOKGUNG: GET IN STYLE BY WEARING TRADITIONAL KOREAN CLOTHING

WEARING HANBOK

For many participants, wearing a hanbok was a first and unforgettable experience. Hanbok is traditional Korean clothing, and Koreans still wear it today for special occasions like weddings or major national holidays.

Renting hanbok has become a beloved tourist activity at historical sites like Gyeongbokgung Palace. Though rental shops offer modernized hanbok with dazzling patterns and updated designs, they still carry a timeless beauty that will make anyone feel like royalty.

At the hanbok shop, participants lit up as they browsed rows of stunning garments. Some became noble scholars, others transformed into brave warriors or graceful princesses. Walking through the palace dressed in attire from the Joseon era, many felt they were inside of a historical scene.

“The hanbok experience was amazing. I felt connected to the culture, especially walking through the palace. Seeing the history and beauty of Korea was eye-opening!” said Army PFC Henry.

Rental shops are easy to find around Gyeongbokgung Station. Prices are budget friendly. Best of all, entry to Gyeongbokgung is free when wearing hanbok!

• Location: Near Line 3. Gyeongbokgung Station Exit 1~4

• Hours: 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. (Closed on Tuesdays / Most shops follow the palace’s operating hours)

• Prices: 10,000 won -14,000 won for 90 minutes / 20,000 – 35,000 won for a full day (until the shop closing time)

GWANGHWAMUN GATE

Gwanghwamun Gate is the main gate of the palace, meaning “The King’s great virtue shines upon the nation.” In front of the gate lies Gwanghwamun Square, a major cultural hub and gathering place for national events or rallies.

This square also honors Korea’s most beloved heroes: King Sejong the Great, the creator of Hangul and Admiral Yi Sun-sin, the naval commander who defended Korea against Japanese invasion. Their statues proudly rise against the backdrop of the palace, standing as powerful symbol of Korea’s legacy.

Admission begins at the next gate, Heungnyemun, so entry through Gwanghwamun Gate is open to all visitors and it’s the perfect place to enjoy the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony.

PALACE ROYAL GUARD CHANGING CEREMONY

Twice a day, the historical scenes of the palace come alive with drums beats and performances of the Changing of the Guard Ceremony. About 70 guards and 15 royal military band members take part in this 20-minute reenactment, reflecting the Joseon military customs.

Much like the guards at Buckingham Palace, Korea’s royal gate guards, called sumungun, were elite military officials tasked with protecting the palace. Though today’s guards are actors, the ceremony is faithfully recreated daily. Visitors may also catch a Dispatch Ceremony and public training sessions at different times throughout the day.

After the ceremony, guards remain at their posts at Gwanghwamun Gate and visitors are welcome to take photos with them. The events are held daily except Tuesdays, and no admission ticket is required. Please note that schedules may change depending on the weather.

Schedule:

• Change Ceremony (main event): 10 a.m. & 2 p.m. (20 min)

• Dispatch Ceremony: 11 a.m. & 1 p.m. (10 min)

• Public training: 9:35 a.m. & 1:35 p.m. (15 min at Hyeopseongmun Gate)

GEUNJEONGJEON HALL

As soon as participants stepped through Geunjeongmun Gate, many paused for photos. Geunjeongjeon Hall, meaning “hall of diligent governance,” is the most important and impressive building in the palace. This was where the king sat on his throne to host official ceremonies like royal coronations, New Year’s greetings with court officials, receptions for foreign envoys and other major events. It was the center of royal power, a place where the future of the nation was once decided.

Things to notice in palace design

• Dancheong: Look closely at the colorful patterns on the wooden buildings. The traditional designs are painted in five elemental colors (blue-green, red, yellow, white, black) but they aren’t just beautiful and decorative. The designs also symbolize spiritual protection, harmony with nature and the status of the structure.

• Japsang: You’ll spot small animal figurines lined up on the rooftops. These tiny guardians were placed there to ward off evil spirits and signify the importance of the building beneath them.

GYEONGHOERU PAVILION

One of the most romantic and scenic spots in Gyeongbokgung, Gyeonghoeru Pavilion is beloved by all visitors for capturing beautiful photographs. Its name means “pavilion of joyous gathering,” and it gracefully sits on an artificial pond on the western side of the palace. In the Joseon era, this was where kings hosted grand banquets and entertained foreign envoys.

MUSEUMS INSIDE THE PALACE

There are two museums within Gyeongbokgung that are truly worth your time. Since the palace grounds are vast, it’s not always easy to see everything in one visit and sometimes the museums get missed. But if you can set aside a full day, I highly recommend including them in your visit. Both are beautifully designed and filled with exhibits that bring Korea’s history to life. Even better, admission is free.

National Palace Museum of Korea: Explore the science, art, and everyday life of the Joseon royalty

• Location: Near Line 3. Gyeongbokgung Station Exit 5, Naver Map

• Hours: 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. (Mon., Tue., Thurs., Fri., Sun.) / 10 a.m. – 9 p.m. (Wed.&Sat.)

National Folk Museum of Korea: Visitors can learn about the daily lives of ordinary Koreans from the past.

• Location: Near Line 3. Anguk Station Exit 1, Naver Map

• Hours: March–Oct.: 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. (Sun.–Fri.), 9 a.m. – 8 p.m. (Sat.) / Nov.–Feb.: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. / Closed New Year’s Day, Seollal, and Chuseok

USAG Yongsan

Camp Casey

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