(Photo by Erin Henderson)
It’s less than two weeks until my family moves across the world (again), and I find myself four hours south on South Korea’s coastal island of Geoje. I am bracing among the rocks of the waves on a small fishing boat, angling to get the best images as Sohee Jin and Jungmin Woo jump overboard, armed with their nets and tuwaks, to begin their day of work in the water. The boat captain graciously idles for a few minutes while I snap some more photos before we speed away to let the girls work. That’s when it dawns on me; these girls will dive for hours without a break in the open water and harsh sun. It’s incredible.
When you think of the famous haenyeo of South Korea, perhaps your mind conjures up the famous images of the beautifully weathered elder haenyeos of Jeju Island. If you have never heard of these iconic women divers, haenyeo, or sea women, are free divers who have been free diving to collect abalone, sea urchins, seaweed, octopus, and other sea creatures since before the Joseon Dynasty. They do so without the help of oxygen tanks. Their strength, resilience and ability to hold their breath for long periods are just a few characteristics that make these women unique.
Sohee and Jungmin relocated to Geoje from the bustling city of Busan, though they did not know each other then. Sohee’s aunt encouraged her to become a haenyeo because she thought it would provide a great opportunity and source of income. Shortly after her move to Geoje, Sohee did a one-year apprenticeship without pay, learning as much as she could from seasoned haenyeo.
For several years, Sohee and Jungmin worked on different boats, eventually pairing up with one other haenyeo who only dives part-time as she is 77. They explained that in the past, the boat captains would take a percentage of whatever was harvested and sold, taking a large piece of the profit. Now, they pay a flat monthly fee to the captain for use of the boat and can keep the profits from their harvest sales.
It is clear from the moment you meet Sohee and Jungmin that they are close friends and deeply passionate about what they do. After their dive, we rejoined them while they quickly prepared a special order for a long-time customer who had driven in from Busan. They offered samples of fresh abalone and oyster, and Jungmin joked that they make such a great pair because Sohee loves to sell the seafood, and Jungmin loves to eat it. Their love for their work is truly inspiring.
(Photo by Erin Henderson)
(Photo by Erin Henderson)
(Photo by Erin Henderson)
(Photo by Erin Henderson)
(Photo by Erin Henderson)
(Photo by Erin Henderson)
(Photo by Erin Henderson)
After Sohee finished her negotiations, we chatted over lunch. Curious about how they sell their catch, I learned the girls are utilizing their following on social media to take orders and share updates about what they have available. They are also in the process of setting up a storefront on Naver. They have amassed fame and quite the following online within South Korea for their appearance in the movie Smugglers. They have also appeared on local news programs and were visited by popular South Korean radio hosts. Jungmin was even featured in a Korea Disney Plus commercial as the haenyeo shown before the clip of Ariel from “The Little Mermaid.”
After lunch, we found ourselves back at the docks while the girls quickly showered and began prepping the remainder of their catch from the morning. They moved seamlessly around each other, completing a task in unison while I bombarded them with questions. I learned that though the population of haenyeo is dwindling, Sohee and Jungmin are doing their best to be ambassadors for this ancient practice. They estimate around 100 haenyeo are in Geoje, and 10 younger haenyeo have joined over the last few years to follow in the footsteps of Sohee, 32, and Jungmin, 38.
When asked about the dangers of diving, they shared stories of getting caught in discarded fishing nets underwater and being clipped by a ship’s propeller when they came up during a dive. In addition to the physical dangers, they stressed that climate change plays a pivotal role in their ability to continue diving; warmer water equals less sea life. They also deal with illegal poachers who dive at night without a license and remove far more than what is allowed.
Though the girls dive year-round, the peak season is December through February, sometimes early March, as that is mating season for sea life. The haenyeo of Geoje dive more often than the haenyeo of Jeju simply due to Geoje’s location. Jeju sees harsher shifts in tides and larger swells, making the conditions more challenging for safe diving, thus resulting in fewer days to be in the water.
Though the future of haenyeo remains unclear, one thing is sure: Sohee and Jungmin love what they do and are proud to call themselves haenyeos. They see diving as a bridge to connect their culture to the outside world and do everything they can to encourage the younger generations to get involved in diving. When I arrived, one of the first things the girls said to me was, “Thank you for showing an interest in our culture.” Their dedication to preserving their culture is a reminder of the importance of staying connected to our traditions. Sohee and Jungmin, thanks to you for allowing me to spend the day learning about your beautiful culture. I am forever grateful for our time together.
Author’s Bio:
Erin Henderson is a professional freelance photographer and writer whose work has been featured in a variety of publications. She is also a mother of two and a Marine Corps spouse living in Stuttgart, Germany. You can find more of her work at erinhendersonmedia.com or follow her travels on Instagram @erinhendrsn.
