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South Koreans have to look back a long time to find political figures with unassailable legacies, which is one reason why Joseon Dynasty leaders like King Sejong and Admiral Yi Sun Sin are so beloved today. In the face of overwhelming odds and stakes no higher than the fate of his people, Yi Sun Sin perfectly demonstrated values of loyalty, integrity, and ingenuity in a legendary defense of his homeland.
Yi is known in Korea as a military genius with a gift for strategy and invention both in tactics and in weaponry. Ancient tales of an armored ship used to fight pirates inspired Yi to create the world’s first iron-clad battleship, called a turtle ship despite its capability for speed. Yi also invented a new type of iron cannon and created a crane-wing formation strategy for trapping enemy ships. His undefeated record in battle includes the famous battle of Myeongnyang, in which his fleet of 12 ships defeated a Japanese force of 133.
Yi’s achievements are all the more impressive considering the weak government plagued by infighting that characterized the late 16th century Joseon Dynasty. False accusations of treachery nearly sent the admiral to the execution block on two separate occasions, and he was also stripped of his command twice, before emerging to lead the Korean fleet to victory. Although the admiral is not well-known in the West, Yi’s hardships and overwhelming success have left him with an unassailable legacy in Korea. I decided to visit some of Korea’s monuments to the admiral, and pay my respects to his memory.
Stop 1: Seoul
My first stop is one that few Koreans seek out: a small stone marker on an otherwise unremarkable street in the printing district of Seoul, a short walk from the Euljiro-3-ga subway station. Images of turtle ships adorn decorated stone blocks along the street, letting visitors know this is Yi’s home district. When I visited in the dead of winter, the plaque was so polished it reflected like a mirror — the monument may be relatively unknown, but someone made sure it glistened in the morning sun.
Gwanghwamun lies in the heart of Seoul, in view of Gyeongbokgung Palace and the American Embassy, a short walk from Insadong. The center of the plaza features a large golden statue of a seated King Sejong, who looks on as a statue of Yi commands a turtle ship. Make your way behind the Sejong statue and you’ll find a door in the back of his throne, and steps leading down. Inside, under the bustle of traffic and pedestrians are two museums: one for King Sejong and another dedicated to the admiral. While geared toward children, the exhibits are worth seeing for interested adults. If you have children in tow, you can play a few games that involve using Joseon-era weapons and technology to turn away the Japanese invasion.
Get there:
Birth Marker: Euljiro 3-ga (Line 2 or Line 3, Exit 8).
Gwanghwamun Square (Line 5, Exit 3 or Exit 4).
Stop 2: Busan
Japan’s 1592 invasion of Korea is known here as the Imjin War, and it began with surreptitious embassy and trade dealings in Busan. Diplomats and traders bribed officials and worked their way into the government infrastructure before their surprise attack. Japanese warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi had unified Japan and wanted to conquer Ming Dynasty China. He planned to conquer Korea quickly, and use the country as a base for pushing Japanese military might farther west. The land battles were a disaster for the outmatched and disorganized Korean army, which could not overcome internal power struggles and bureaucracy to fight off the Japanese army and its newly-developed muskets.
In a set of five key sea battles near Busan in August and early September 1592, Yi Sun Sin led his fleet of 166 to a series of crushing victories against the 470-ship strong Japanese fleet. Those defeats at sea were the only thing that held Toyotomi from his goal. Yi and the Korean fleet cut off the supply lines for the Japanese army, and turned what should have been a quick Japanese victory into a lengthy and difficult defeat.
The great port city has a large statue of Yi Sun Sin, which was erected in Yongdusan Park in 1955. After taking in the four battle scenes on the statue’s pedestal, I went to the top of Busan Tower, which is a great way to view the ships and passages in Busan Harbor.
Get there:
Nampo-dong Station (Line 1, Exit 1)
Stop 3: Tongyeong and Cheongwan
Tongyeong is the hardest place to reach among those on this list, but perhaps the most rewarding. In Tongyeong Harbor, tourists can visit three separate turtle ships, the most ever in commission at once in the Korean Navy. The highlight is a fourth vessel: a dilapidated but earnest replica of panokseon, the large battleship of the type that Admiral Yi would have headed as the flagship of his fleet. The ship is emblematic of the tourist-driven attractions in Tongyeong, which look like they are capable of safely floating in the harbor — but not much else.
After exploring the harbor, I took a ferry to Hansando, the island home of one of the admiral’s naval bases during the war and a launch site for some of his most important campaigns. A ferry takes you past a turtle ship lighthouse and a turtle ship statue atop a mountain west of the tiny Hansando Harbor. Yi’s base has been partially rebuilt and restored to allow tourists to enjoy a sense of what it was like 400 years ago. The complex now features several buildings from the era, a shrine, and his unique archery range, where sailors trained to fire arrows over the sea.
I made my way to Changwon and the Korea Naval Academy Museum. Traveling here requires a special guide since the academy is closed to civilians, but the sights are worth the effort. The best statue of the admiral in Korea is here, and features a realistic Yi holding a bow and arrow. The main attraction is the Korean Navy’s full-size, fully operational turtle ship. Built in 1980 to exacting specifications, this magnificent ship is the only way to experience stepping into history with a convincing replica of Admiral Yi’s creation. The ship is in commission as a training vessel for the Korean Navy. When you walk around the deck, you can lift the thick wooden window panels and glimpse some of the destroyers that make up Korea’s modern naval fleet. No photos are allowed.
Get there:
Changwon: Changwon Station then taxi to the Naval Academy (Haegun Sagweon Hakyo).
Tongyeong: Tongyeong Bus Terminal then taxi to Tongyeong Culture Plaza.
Hansando: Tongyeong Bus Terminal then taxi to the ferry port then take the ferry for 25 minutes.
Stop 4: Yeosu
Yi’s legacy is especially strong in Yeosu, from which he launched his most famous naval campaigns. When the Japanese invaded in 1592, Yi was stationed in Yeosu as head of half of the Jeollado section of the Korean fleet. His comprehensive strategy and perfect success rate eventually earned him a place as admiral of Korea’s entire fleet.
I approached the center of Yeosu by bus and was greeted by a towering statue of the admiral in the center of a roundabout, looking over Yi Sun Sin Square. The admiral is depicted pointing out at the harbor while holding an oversized ceremonial sword and standing on a turtle ship. Yi Sun Sin Square borders the harbor and features an enormous turtle ship replica built on the land. A memorial has detailed maps and information about the war, along with stone drum memorials for those who fought in the navy with Admiral Yi. From the square, a short walk up the hill will take you to Yi’s naval headquarters, which is known as Jinnamgwan, and a humble museum dedicated to the Imjin War.
A short taxi ride will take you to Yeosu Seonso Yujeok, the original shipyard for the first turtle ship. For those who don’t know better, the pair of empty stone docks and modest restored buildings may look uninspiring. Knowing what was built here and how it changed the course of Korean history gives the shipyard a sense of significance. The site is free of charge and largely off the radar for tourists, so I enjoyed the gently lapping waters of the small bay in a quiet moment in the footsteps of history.
If you have time, visit Chungminsa, the oldest shrine dedicated to the admiral and one of Yeosu’s lesser-known historical sites. Chungminsa was demolished in 1919 during the Japanese occupation, but was rebuilt by locals. The small shrine is tucked away in a quiet mountainside park, and the serene atmosphere and museum make this one of my favorite places in Korea.
Get there:
Yi Sun Sin Square: Any city bus
Seonso Shipyard: From Yeosu Intercity Bus Terminal, take Bus 88 to Buyeong Apt. 3-danji.
Stop 5: Asan
While a weak government and bribed military leaders wanted to allow the Japanese fleet to retreat intact, Yi refused to let the people who occupied his country for seven years escape to rebuild their army. In a final bloody battle at Noryang, Yi was hit by a bullet in the shoulder. Facing death, the commander wanted to ensure victory and the morale of his men.
With his final breath, he said “Cover me with a shield. The battle is in an urgent state now. Never let the soldiers know my death.”
Admiral Yi was felled by a bullet, but he ensured that Japan’s hope for conquest died with him. The battle at Noryang left the shattered remnants of the once-mighty Japanese fleet limping home, and the peace for which Yi fought so hard would last more than 300 years.
Asan is a perfect bookend to a journey around Korea in the admiral’s shadow. The city’s main historical attraction is Hyeonchungsa, an extensive memorial complex containing shrines, Yi’s family home, and a museum dedicated to Yi Sun Sin. Yi’s family moved from Seoul to Asan when he was eight years old, and you can shoot arrows in the spot that Yi himself did as a young man. The complex is Korea’s largest monument to the admiral.
Yi Sun Sin’s final resting place is far from the city in Asan. He is buried in a modest circular tomb on a quiet hillside. Walking through the grounds toward his tomb, I passed quiet rice paddies and a reflecting pool with a pine tree in the center. Koi and goldfish swam slowly in the cold winter water, awaiting the spring. The breeze only lightly touches this side of the mountain, leaving the air fresh and still in the clearing. I watched children playing on the grass and I was overwhelmed by the thought that Yi would love this place. All his military accomplishments were borne from a fierce love of his country and a dedication to defend the common people. Today, the legacy of Korea’s greatest hero is celebrated throughout the land of the morning calm.
Get there:
Hyeonchungsa: From Cheonan Station, take Buses 900, 910 or 920.
Tomb of Yi Sun Sin: From Onyang Oncheon Station (Line 1), take a taxi to Yi Sun Sin Mudom
